Refining a downward dog or trying a new balance pose at the yoga studio is challenging enough on its own, but it’s made even harder when you’re fiddling with sagging, too tight or uncomfortable yoga clothes. That’s why it’s important to purchase clothes that are breathable, flexible and comfortable.

Your yoga clothing purchases will depend largely on personal preference, as well as the style of yoga you plan to practice. But at a high level, here’s what to wear to yoga (see below for a more detailed discussion of these yoga basics):

Breathable, flexible bottoms like yoga pants or shorts
A breathable, narrow- or form-fitting top that won’t hang over your head when you’re upside down.
For women, a sports yoga bra or built-in shelf bra that offers enough support for the type of yoga suit set you’re practicing
A comfortable, warm top layer for end-of-class savasana (corpse pose) or after class when you’ve cooled down

What to Look For in Yoga Clothing
Many yoga clothes are made with polyester-nylon-spandex blends, and for good reason—these fabrics offer the right balance of comfort, breathability and flexibility:

Comfort: There’s nothing worse than practicing yoga in an uncomfortable piece of clothing. As you tune into your body, you don’t want to focus on itchy seams and tags, saggy or too tight waistbands, or fabric that binds and chafes.
Breathability: Depending on the type of yoga you practice, you may sweat a little or a lot. Particularly if you’re sweating a lot, it’s important to wear breathable and moisture-wicking materials to keep you cool and comfortable. Tank tops, shirts with cutouts and yoga pants with mesh pockets will all improve breathability and venting. Avoid cotton, which holds moisture, makes you feel hot and damp, then leaves you prone to chafing or getting chilled when class winds down.
Flexibility: Yoga involves bending, stretching, binding, lunging, reaching and rolling. Your clothes need to be able to keep up with these movements, which means they’ll probably be made with at least 15 percent spandex.

What to Wear to Yoga Class
Yoga clothes belong to a category often referred to as “athleisure,” which means that people now wear yoga suit as a matter of fashion, not just function. As such, you’ll now find yoga gear with pockets, mesh cutouts, bright colors, wild patterns and more. While all of this is fun, if you’re planning to wear your clothing to an actual yoga class, remember to pay attention to function: When you’re trying items on, consider doing a few yoga poses (downward facing dog and high crescent lunge are great options) in the dressing room or at home to test out the garment’s flexibility and comfort.

A typical yoga wardrobe includes:

Yoga leggings/pants: Yoga clothing brands offer multiple styles of yoga long pants with varying lengths and fits. As with all yoga clothing, look for yoga pants or leggings (terms that are used somewhat interchangeably) that offer a good combination of breathability, flexibility and comfort. Nylon-polyester-spandex blend pants are a good bet, as they move with you through postures but also wick moisture.

If you’re concerned about coverage when bending and stretching, high-waisted leggings or pants might be a good choice; they are typically less likely to slip during a fast practice or ride down too far during inverted poses like downward dog. Most leggings range from midcalf to full leg in length. Loose-fitted pants can be a nice option for slower yoga classes like restorative or yin; they are typically not recommended for power vinyasa classes, as they can impede mobility. If you do choose to wear loose-fitted pants for a challenging yoga class, look for options that cinch around the ankle.

Yoga shorts of fitness clothing: Some brands make men’s yoga shorts with built-in liners for comfort during a bendy, stretchy practice. Alternatively, you can find longer yoga shorts that reach to the knee, which can aid in coverage during inversions. Spandex yoga top shorts, typically geared toward women, are a tricky business; they tend to ride up during practice and don’t provide much coverage during complicated poses. However, some people find them to be the most comfortable option when there’s lots of heat and sweat involved, as with hot yoga classes.

In general, avoid yoga bottoms that are too thin and see-through, saggy (a common occurrence in low-rise, too-tight pants) or made with cotton. If you build up some heat in your practice, remember that longer coverage on your legs can be a bonus for arm balancing postures, as the fabric can help keep your legs from slipping off your sweaty arms.

Yoga tops: No matter the style, most yogis prefer to wear form-fitting T-shirts or tank tops that fit snugly around the hips and waist. This narrow fit keeps the shirt from falling over your head during forward bending postures. Shirts made with breathable, moisture-wicking materials and soft seams are also a good idea for sweaty classes; avoid itchy tags and tops that chafe under your armpits. Many yoga tank tops have sports bras built in as well.

Give your yoga top a test run by bending forward to touch your toes in the dressing room: Does the shirt gap at the chest or fall over your head? If so, trade it in for a shirt with a tighter fit. As always, avoid cotton.

Yoga sweaters/jackets: If you plan to run errands after class, you might want a warm, comfortable yoga cover-up like a jacket, quarter-zip or sweatshirt. This can be especially helpful during the winter, after leaving a sweaty class: Extra layers can prevent the immediate chill you’ll likely experience after leaving the warm room.

Sports bras: Your choice of sports bra will depend on your bra size and coverage needs. In general, high intensity classes like power vinyasa require more support, as you’re likely to be twisting and inverting (going upside down). If you plan to attend a low intensity class like yin or restorative yoga, a lower level of support will work just fine. It’s worth noting that many female yogis wear sports bras alone, without a tank top or T-shirt, in sweatier classes. Some yoga shirts and tanks come with bras already built in.

Yoga socks: Some people prefer to wear socks while practicing yoga, to keep their feet from slipping on the mat. Most yoga socks have plastic treads on the bottom to prevent sliding; you can also find yoga toe socks. If you’d rather not wear socks in class, consider buying a non-slip yoga mat or using a yoga towel on top of your existing mat.

Breathable underwear: Like any sport, yoga involves sweat and movement, so you’ll want to wear base layers that breathe, wick moisture and don’t bunch; avoid cotton. Buy underwear that doesn’t chafe or move too much on your body as you move into deep stretches. Some people prefer to wear formfitting yoga leggings pants without underwear.

How to maintain your sprayers

    When it comes to getting the best value for your dollar, it’s important to buy the most appropriate fungicides, herbicides and insecticides for the job.

    But it’s equally important to maintain the equipment used to apply these products. Maintaining your sprayer may seem elementary, but it can stretch your crop protection dollar and deliver more healthy plants. A sprayer in good shape provides better coverage, and that means better disease and pest control.

    Consistent coverage

    “When applying any plant-protection product, it is always important to have the best possible coverage,” said Jim Petta, Syngenta Professional Products field technical manager. “This will ensure that you are receiving the most activity and benefit from that product.”

    Optimizing your spraying pattern is the first step. Petta suggests using water-sensitive paper or a fluorescent dye to test the droplet pattern.

    Thorough and uniform coverage is essential for contact insecticide and fungicide products. They provide protection by coating the outside surface of crop foliage, stems or root systems. For best results, these products should be sprayed with small microdroplets, reaching both the tops and undersides of leaves in a uniform pattern.

    Products with translaminar or locally systemic activity provide control from the inside out. When sprayed on the tops of leaves, they control pests or diseases underneath, so they may be more forgiving when it comes to spray coverage.

    But remember that only the leaves that receive adequate spray will be protected. So optimizing spray pressure is key to ensuring that foliage within the plant canopy is covered.

    But there’s more involved in getting consistent coverage than just the way you hold the sprayer or run the hoses to the nozzles. It’s about maintaining equipment to ensure you get every last drop of protection on your plants.

    Start at the beginning

    “Good coverage starts with a good sprayer. And a good rule of thumb is to buy new equipment each time you begin or expand your operation,” Petta said. “When you unpack that new equipment, you should always read the manual to make sure you are following the manufacturer’s recommendations.”

    Filling and priming your sprayer can differ from unit to unit.

    “Improper use of your sprayer, or neglecting it, will increase your maintenance costs and adversely affect the solution output, pressure and particle size.” said Kurt Becker, Dramm Corp. director of commercial products and marketing.

    “Variance also adversely affects both distribution (getting the solution to the plant in the correct amount) and deposition (sticking the pesticide, fungicide or insecticide to the plant), which greatly reduces the effectiveness of your products and wastes money,” Becker said.

    Measuring sprayer output

    A key component in pesticide performance is knowing how much pesticide is applied over a given area. Measuring your power sprayer output is the first phase in calculating how much pesticide is applied over a given area, said Dramm salesman Russell Blackwell. This example will help determine how much pesticide is applied in a specific area. This way you can follow the product’s label recommendations.

    The best advice

    The three best pieces of advice for maintaining your equipment is:

    1. Clean the sprayer.

    2. Clean the sprayer.

    3. Clean the sprayer.

    You just can’t clean it enough. Remember to immediately clean your equipment after each use.

    “We suggest running warm water through the pump, but if that’s not available, then a drop of liquid dishwashing soap will clean the pump,” Blackwell said. “After the dishwashing soap, flush the pump with clean water.”

    The detergent helps remove sticky residue some chemicals can leave behind. Left in the equipment, this residue causes moving parts to stick and clog, reducing your sprayer’s effectiveness.

    Off-season storage

    While greenhouses are wonderful for starting seeds, their dampness and humidity are not the best location to keep a trigger sprayer between seasons. Even though sprayers are designed to operate just fine in a greenhouse, you’ll be better off if you store it in a clean, dry building over the winter.

    Before you hang the sprayer up and walk away, take a few minutes to clean, complete periodic maintenance and winterize your sprayer. After the sprayer is cleaned and serviced, flush rubbing alcohol through the pump and hose.

    Flushing with rubbing alcohol before draining the unit will help you avoid having freezing water in the equipment. It will also reduce mold buildup.

    Just as you disconnect a garden hose from spigot at home, remove the discharge hose and drain the unit before storing it for long periods.

    Needs assessment

    Cleaning and proper care of a sprayer will greatly extend its life. So will regular, thorough examinations for wear and tear, and prompt replacement of worn parts.

    Set up a schedule to replace seals, nozzles and other parts before the system is so worn that replacement parts won’t correct a spray pattern or improve the equipment’s performance, requiring the purchase of a new tool.

    A visual inspection should consist of these steps:

    1. Check hoses.

    2. Inspect filters for damage.

    3. View seals for clogs, fractures or cracks.

    4. Examine the tank lining.

    5. Ensure straps are tight.

    5. Check for proper pressure and leaks.

    If you find problems, promptly replace or repair the parts.

    Simple tips for measuring pressure sprayer output

    * Time yourself. Know how long it takes to spray a given area with your hydraulic sprayer as a garden tool. An example is 12.5 minutes to cover a 5,000-square-foot area.

    * Know the solution output through the spray gun. Fill the tank with several gallons of clean water. Spray into a covered bucket for 1 minute at the “typical” PSI (pounds per square inch) and spray-gun pattern setting. Personal protection equipment (PPE) is required to avoid exposure from residue in the spray solution. Avoid spraying or splashing your eyes or skin during this step.

    * Measure the solution sprayed into the bucket. Two gallons of solution would mean a 2 gpm output.

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    * Determine how much solution is applied per acre. Given a 2 gpm output and 12.5 minutes needed to spray 5,000 square feet, it would take 217 gallons and 48 minutes to spray 1 acre.

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    Maintenance checklist

    Here is a checklist with general suggestions for cleaning sprayers after use, and it is also suitable for a watering can. Each type of sprayer may have different requirements. Check the owner’s manual for specific recommendations.

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    * Rinse the inside of the tank.

    * Flush the pump with clean water (warm water if possible).

    * Use a drop of liquid dishwashing soap while flushing when using chemicals that leave sticky residues. Then follow with a flush of clean water.

    * Clean filters and nozzle tips.

    * Clean the outside of the entire sprayer.

    * Wipe the motor and pump with a damp cloth.

    * Check the sprayer for needed replacement parts.

    * Do not leave chemicals in the tank overnight.

    * Store the sprayer in a clean, dry building or cover the unit.

    * If necessary, winterize your sprayer.

Injection molding

    It is usually slow and inefficient to mold thermoplastics using the compression molding techniques described above. In particular, it is necessary to cool a thermoplastic part before removing it from the mold, and this requires that the mass of metal making up the mold also be cooled and then reheated for each part. Plastic Injection Molding is a method of overcoming this inefficiency. Injection molding resembles transfer molding in that the liquefying of the resin and the regulating of its flow is carried out in a part of the apparatus that remains hot, while the shaping and cooling are carried out in a part that remains cool. In a reciprocating screw injection molding machine, material flows under gravity from the hopper onto a turning screw. The mechanical energy supplied by the screw, together with auxiliary heaters, converts the resin into a molten state. At the same time, the screw retracts toward the hopper end. When a sufficient amount of resin is melted, the screw moves forward, acting like a ram and forcing the polymer to melt through a gate into the cooled mold. Once the plastic has solidified in the mold, the mold is unclamped and opened, and the part is pushed from the mold by automatic ejector pins. The mold is then closed and clamped, and the screw turns and retracts again to repeat the cycle of liquefying a new increment of resin. For small parts, cycles can be as rapid as several injections per minute.

    One type of network-forming thermoset, polyurethane, is molded into parts such as automobile bumpers and inside panels through a process known as reaction PEEK Injection Molding, or RIM. The two liquid precursors of polyurethane are a multifunctional isocyanate and a prepolymer, a low-molecular-weight polyether or polyester bearing a multiplicity of reactive end-groups such as hydroxyl, amine, or amide. In the presence of a catalyst such as a tin soap, the two reactants rapidly form a network joined mainly by urethane groups. The reaction takes place so rapidly that the two precursors have to be combined in a special mixing head and immediately introduced into the mold. However, once in the mold, the product requires very little pressure to fill and conform to the mold—especially since a small amount of gas is evolved in the injection process, expanding the polymer volume and reducing resistance to flow. The low molding pressures allow relatively lightweight and inexpensive molds to be used, even when large items such as bumper assemblies or refrigerator doors are formed.

    The importance of Mold Design And Making on the productivity of a tool is often overlooked in the design of a mold. Several areas in the mold design exist where the molder must work with the mold builder in order to optimize the productivity of the mold. A good standard for mold productivity is saleable parts out of the press per hour. Cycle time and part quality are the critical aspects of saleable parts per hour. The areas of design found to be most important for increased productivity are the sprue bushing, runners and gates, hot manifold, venting, cooling, and ejection. While each of these items is specific to the mold being built, good design for each can contribute to improved part quality and optimum cycle time.

    Too often the mold maker is left to decide the sizes of the sprue, runners, and gates and only when running the first samples does the molder learn that the sizes are not optimal. Much of this can be resolved beforehand by following the principles of runner and gate design found in the Injection Molding Handbook, as well as other reference materials. Again, runners sized too small affect the heat and pressure of the Plastic Mold and runners too large may slow the cycle for cooling time and cause unnecessary regrind.

    Computer Numerical Control (CNC) machining is a manufacturing process in which pre-programmed computer software dictates the movement of factory tools and machinery. The process can be used to control a range of complex machinery, from grinders and lathes to mills and CNC routers. With CNC Machining Service, three-dimensional cutting tasks can be accomplished in a single set of prompts.

    The CNC process runs in contrast to — and thereby supersedes — the limitations of manual control, where live operators are needed to prompt and guide the commands of machining tools via levers, buttons and wheels. To the onlooker, a CNC system might resemble a regular set of computer components, but the software programs and consoles employed in CNC PEEK Machining Servicedistinguish it from all other forms of computation.

    When a CNC system is activated, the desired cuts are programmed into the software and dictated to corresponding tools and machinery, which carry out the dimensional tasks as specified, much like a robot. In CNC programming, the code generator within the numerical system will often assume mechanisms are flawless, despite the possibility of errors, which is greater whenever a CNC machine is directed to cut in more than one direction simultaneously. The placement of a tool in a numerical control system is outlined by a series of inputs known as the part program.

    With a numerical control machine, programs are inputted via punch cards. By contrast, the programs for CNC POM Machining Services are fed to computers through small keyboards. CNC programming is retained in a computer’s memory. The code itself is written and edited by programmers. Therefore, CNC systems offer far more expansive computational capacity. Best of all, CNC systems are by no means static since newer prompts can be added to pre-existing programs through revised code.

    Rubber materials that are harder are more resistant to compression set, the permanent deformation of a material after prolonged compressive stresses at a given temperature and deflection. If a rubber reaches a compression set, the seal loses its ability to return to its original thickness when the compressive stress is released. Leakage may occur, and seal failure can result. Chemical resistance can be critical – and complicated. That’s why it’s important to identify all the chemical agents to which your rubber product will be exposed. For example, if you’re in the mobile equipment industry, you may need engine bay insulation that can resist both fuel oil and cleaning chemicals. The Rubber Seals on fuel tanks may need to resist both diesel fuel and biodiesel blends.

Laparoscopic instruments are made of durable materials and usually high quality stainless steel. Instruments all have a very narrow shaft so that they can fit inside laparoscopic ports. Sizes typically range from 3 mm, 5 mm and 10 mm sizes. A variety of tips are available for manipulating the tissue and handle styles may allow ergonomic rotating, grasping and locking abilities in a precise fashion.

Laparoscopic instruments are used along with a laparoscope, which is a thin telescope fitted with a cold light source and a video camera. Inert gases like carbon dioxide are used to inflate the abdominal region which increases the distance between the organs and the abdominal wall thus enlarging the operating field. Common instruments used during laparoscopic procedures include a: LAPAROSCOPE, NEEDLE DRIVER FOR SUTURING, TROCAR, BOWEL GRASPER and SURGICAL MESH.

LAPAROSCOPE
Surgical scopes are one of the oldest instruments used by medical practitioners since ancient times. Modern surgical laparoscopes used for minimally invasive procedures are a far cry from the simple hollow tubes that gradually developed to include lenses for magnified vision. Today, scopes are more like an apparatus with multiple parts that include a CCD camera, viewing device, lens cleaner, and an energy-supply device.

NEEDLE DRIVER
A needle holder is used by laparoscopic surgeons to hold suturing needles when closing wounds. Forming slip-knots to close wounds and surgical incisions requires precise skills. Suturing can often be tricky to use owing to the property of “memory” which causes tissue to resist deformation. Needle holders have three parts – the jaws, joints, and handles. The instrument, including disposable laparoscopic instruments and reusable laparoscopic instruments, is classified as straight or curved depending upon the shape of the jaws.

TROCAR
Along with the probe, scalpel, and cannula the trocar is one of the oldest implements used by medical practitioners. A trocar is shaped like a pen and has a sharp triangular point. Trocars are typically placed inside hollow cannulas and introduced inside body cavities to assist in draining fluids. Trocars are now referred to as both the initial entry device as well as the hollow cannula used during the operation. These instruments play an important role in laparoscopic surgery. Instruments such as scissors and graspers are introduced using surgical trocars.

BOWEL GRASPER
A bowel grasper is used during minimally invasive bowel surgery. The graspers are maneuvered through incisions that are usually no larger than 5 mm. The advantage with using laparoscopic graspers is that they enable the surgeon to grasp and manipulate abdomen tissue with precision without having to cut open the abdomen. The graspers facilitate observation, excision, and biopsy procedures.

SURGICAL MESH
Hernia mesh is an implantable device that serves as scaffolding for your natural tissue to grow into and hence reinforce the area. The mesh itself only provides minimal support. It is your own tissue that is ultimately responsible for the repair. There are many different types of surgical mesh that can be used to repair hernias and other defects of the musculoskeletal system.

The journey of laparoscopy, which is now reaching single-incision and robotic surgery, began with our quest to find ways to reduce operative morbidity.1 Since those first steps were taken, gynaecological surgery with the use of minimally invasive techniques continues to change rapidly. With computerised design and microchip-controlled safety features, the laparoscopic surgeon is dependent on the equipment and needs to understand the electromechanical function of the instruments. In this changing environment, it is vital to understand the characteristics of the commonly used surgical instruments. The basic equipment essential for any laparoendoscopic procedure includes: endoscope, camera, light source, video monitor, insufflator, trocars and surgical instruments. However, there are many variants of each available.

Disposable or reusable?
The cost effectiveness of disposable versus reusable instruments is a subject of debate. The choice of the instrument is multifactorial and depends on function, reliability and cost. So, during most laparoscopic procedures, a combination of disposable and reusable instruments is used. Frequently, disposable trocars and scissors are used, while reusable instruments can be graspers, coagulation spatula/hook and needle drivers. The commonly used laparoscopic instruments are described below.

Uterine manipulators
These allow uterine positioning and expand operating space. Several uterine manipulators are available – the HUMI® (Cooper Surgical), the RUMI® (Cooper Surgical), Spackman, Cohen, Hulka, Valtchev, Pelosi and Clearview® (Endopath). Some are reusable while others are disposable. Most come with a channel to perform chromotubation; however, some (such as Hulka tenaculum and Pelosi) lack this channel. With 210˚, Clearview has the greatest range of motion in the anterior-posterior plane. Hulka tenaculum, Spackman’s and Cohen’s have a straight shaft, hindering their range of motion and limiting their use in advanced laparoscopic accessories and procedures.

Veress needle
This is a specially designed needle with a blunt-tipped, spring-loaded inner stylet and a sharp outer needle, used to achieve pneumoperitoneum while performing closed laparoscopy with ultrasonic system. It is available in disposable and reusable form, with 12cm or a 15cm length.

Most injuries in minimally invasive surgery are associated with primary port insertion, leading to an unresolved debate on the benefits of various entry techniques (open, closed or direct entry). There is no evidence that any single technique is better in preventing major vascular or visceral complications, though there is a higher risk of failed entry with closed entry. The most recent Cochrane review concluded there is a lower risk of vascular injury with the direct entry in comparison to use of Veress needle.3

Trocars/cannulas
These are used to create small passageways through the abdominal wall and are available in different textures (see Figure 1). Disposable and reusable trocars in various sizes are available and share the following common parts:

Sharp tips cut an entry path through the abdominal wall while blunt tips stretch the tissues apart to gain access to the peritoneal cavity.
Sleeve: is the working channel. Trocar sleeves or collars can have textures on the outer surface of the trocar that help it anchor to the abdominal wall. Some have an internal inflatable balloon at their tip and plastic/rubber ring to provide anchorage.
Valve: different valve systems prevent gas leaking from trocars and allow the insertion of instruments.
Side port: many trocars come with a side port that allows for gas insufflation or smoke evacuation.
Laparoscopes
The telescopes used in laparoscopy are available in sizes ranging from 2mm up to 12mm. The 10mm size is the one most commonly used in gynaecology. Similar to a hysteroscope, a laparoscope can come with an angle of view such as 0˚, 30˚ or 45˚. In an angled-view scope, the direction of vision points away from light source attachment. The 0˚ telescope offers a forward view corresponding to the natural approach and is preferred by most gynaecologists. It is useful if a less-experienced assistant is available. The 30˚ telescope can be rotated to enlarge field of view and can be advantageous for complicated cases. The 45˚ telescope is useful in single-incision laparoscopies, but is not commonly available. Every laparoscope has an engraved number by the eyepiece that specifies the viewing angle.

How It Works: A Lean, Mean Nail Gun

    Pneumatic nailers can slash the time it takes to fasten everything from window trim to roof rafters. The basic guts of the tool haven’t changed since the 1960s: Compressed air pushes a piston that drives a rod, forcing nails deep into wood, before the tool resets for the next nail. Now Bosch has figured out how to make an Air Nailer that is 20 percent smaller while boosting power by 10 percent, so it can drive nails into hardwoods like walnut with less pressure than other guns. Instead of reserving some of the compressed air for resetting the piston, which weakens the strike, the tool uses all of the air’s energy to drive the nails. A vent exhausts the air, and a second burst returns the piston. Since our Coil Nailer can operate at lower pressure, it reduces wear on compressors and components, while still hammering home 1- to 2.5-inch-long nails all day.

    Design Highlights on the Nail Gun

    Self-Cleaning Filter: The pressurized air leaving the tool cleans this filter, which captures debris like sawdust and dirt, preventing it from clogging the cylinder.

    Fitting: A connection to an air hose allows pressurized air to flow from an electric air compressor into the Framing Nailer, where it’s moved by valves controlled by the trigger.

    Bump Firing: Like most nailers, we also have a semiautomatic mode called bump firing, in which you can hold down the trigger and fire a nail just by pressing the nose to the wood. A toggle switch on the trigger changes the position of a metal lever inside so that it touches the trigger-valve pin. At that point, depressing the nose pushes the metal lever into the pin, activating the trigger.

    Depth of Drive: A dial lets you adjust the distance between the nose and the board, which changes how deeply the gun drives the nail.

    Spray Guns are equipment that can spray paint or varnish using air pressure to apply it or spread it on a surface. These HVLP Spray Gun HVLP can be used to paint on any type of surface or substrate, be it metal, wood, stone, clay (ceramics), and porcelain, plastic, glass, and textile. For this reason, spray guns are fundamental tools for any type of manufacturing industry and repainting services, since they allow industrial finishing of any of their products economically and efficiently.

    Spray guns were invented in 1888 by Dr. Allen DeVilbiss in the United States. Then, his son continued to improve the invention, producing the first Touch Up Spray Gun to use compressed air. The development of spray guns technology has continued to this day.

    A pressure pot (AKA Paint Tank) is a precision painting tool and is typically used for customizing and fine tuning paint spray to meet desired texture results or job specs. The Automatic Paint Pressure Tank holds the paint and the desired spray is achieved by balancing liquid pressure via a liquid regulator, with air pressure via an air regulator. Both regulators sit atop the tank lid. Set fluid pressure, then set air pressure. Increasing air pressure and/or lowering fluid pressure will result in smaller particles of paint for a finer spray. Products differ by capacity, number of regulators and tank composition, among other considerations.

    An Airless Sprayer, or a spray paint machine, simplifies painting in two ways: First, if you want to speed up a job that requires several gallons of paint, you can apply it twice as fast as with a roller or brush. And second, if you want a glass-smooth finish on woodwork or doors, the airless sprayer can lay the paint on flawlessly.

    An Airless Paint Sprayer works by pumping paint at a very high pressure, up to 3,000 psi, through a hose and out a tiny hole in the spray gun tip. The tip is designed to break up the paint evenly into a fan-shaped spray pattern of tiny droplets. Using different tips, you can spray thin liquids like stain, lacquer and varnish or thicker liquids like latex house paint. With a little practice, you can use an airless sprayer to apply a perfectly smooth finish on doors, cabinets and woodwork. And since an airless sprayer pumps paint directly from a can or 5-gallon bucket, you can apply a lot of material in a short time. This makes an airless sprayer particularly well suited for large paint jobs, like priming bare drywall in a new house or painting a 300-ft.-long privacy fence.

    Pneumatic Tools are designed around three basic devices: cylinders, blades, motors and sprayers. A piston is installed in the cylinder. The piston pushes the length of the cylinder by compressed air, and then returns by air or spring. In a common pneumatic hammer (called percussion drill), the piston is not connected to anything, but moves freely in the cylinder. At one end of the power stroke, the piston strikes the top of the drill bit; An additional mechanism in a hammer drill rotates the bit slightly after each blow. Light hand-held pneumatic hammer is used for cutting paint, carving rock and riveting from metal. Larger hammers for mining and quarrying; Some of them are mounted on mechanically propelled vehicles. The hammer is designed to be clamped on the side of a bucket or other container to hold sand or concrete. Vibration will cause the contents to settle. The blade motor is better adapted to rotary motion and can run at high speed. In this motor, the sliding blade radiates from the shaft end extending to the cylinder. The center of the shaft is not in the center of the cylinder; Therefore, the cavitation size formed by the blade and the cylinder wall is not equal. In the position with small cavitation, the air entering through the opening on the cylinder wall tends to push the blade to the position with large cavitation. There, air escapes through a second opening in the cylinder wall. When high-speed operation is required, there is no gear connection between the shaft and wire brush, drill bit, screwdriver and grinder; The speed is usually 10000 to 20000 rpm.

All About Pneumatic Nailers

    Air-powered nail guns offer many advantages that the hammer-and-nail approach, no matter how honorable, can’t hope to match.

    What Counts:

    ? Type of fastener

    ? Maximum and minimum length of the fastener

    ? Ease of clearing nail jams

    ? Easy-to-use depth adjustment for fasteners

    ? Exhaust ports that direct air away from the user

    ? Ease of loading fasteners

    Pneumatic Air Nailers are not only much faster than doing the work by hand, but nailers also are more accurate and do less damage to delicate molding and trim. Cordless models offer the same advantages without the air hose.

    A size for every task

    Coil Nailers are made to handle almost every conceivable fastener, from tiny headless pins that leave virtually no trace to powerful framing guns that sink 16d nails as quickly as you can pull the trigger. The versatility and range of sizes has endeared nailers to everyone from roofers and framers to trim carpenters and cabinetmakers.

    In a cabinet shop, the most useful nailers include Finish Nailers, Brad Nailers, pin nailers and narrow-crown staplers. Finish nailers, the heaviest of the lot, use 15- or 16-gauge nails up to 2-1/2 in. long. Some have angled nail magazines that make it easier to reach into tight spaces. Brad nailers use smaller 18-gauge nails up to 2 in. long. Because the nails are smaller in cross section, they leave a smaller hole that must be filled later and are less likely to split narrow trim and molding, But they also have less resistance to pull-through. Pin Nailers use headless pins — some as small as 23-gauge fasteners 1/2 in. long — for attaching delicate trim pieces and holding trim in place while glue dries. Staple guns are for use in places where the fastener won’t show, such as attaching cabinet backs.

    Beyond the cabinet shop

    Framing Nailers drive much heavier nails, from 6d to 16d. They are much larger, heavier tools and come in two styles: coil and stick. Coil nailers are more compact and hold four or five times the number of nails that a stick nailer can. Some users find the coil nailers are not as well balanced as stick nailers. Stick nailers use full round-head nails, required by code in some parts of the country, or clipped-head nails that take up a little less room in the magazine. Framing guns also can be set up for two types of firing: bounce firing, where the gun is activated each time the tip is depressed, and sequential firing, where the safety tip must be depressed and the trigger pulled for each fastener.

    Spraying is by far the most frequently used application when it comes to Industrial painting. Spray-painting equipment can be classified by atomization method: air, hydraulic or centrifugal. These classifications can general be broken down further into conventional air atomize, airless, air-assisted airless, air electrostatic, airless electrostatic air-assisted airless electrostatic; high-volume low-pressure (HVLP) and rotating electrostatic discs and bells. The most common of these being the air atomize, HVLP, Airless, Air Assisted Airless and electrostatic Spray Gun.

    Air atomizing guns used to be the most popular for applying high quality paint finishes. Because they are notorious for yielding lower transfer efficiencies than HVLP Spray Gun HVLP, many states have passed air pollution regulations that outlaw them or discourage their use. These guns rely on paint pumped under pressure to conventional spray guns, so that it mixes with a stream of compressed air either internally or externally. The compressed air breaks up the liquid stream or atomizes it, causing it to break up into droplets that form a spray. Most internal-mix guns have controls to regulate fluid flow, atomizing air and spray patterns. Since these adjustments allow the guns to meet the finishing requirements of a variety of sizes and shapes, conventional spray guns are used for coating many high-quality items. They can apply catalyzed, high-solids and waterborne coatings as well as more traditional finishes.

    It is very important to have the right size of water pressure Paint Tank for your usage. Whether you are installing a new one or upgrading your current pressure tank, selecting the right size of pressure tank for your pump system will ensure that your pump performance is optimized and sustained for as long as possible. That is the reason why pressure tanks have a wide range of sizes and depend on your unique situation and demands for your usages, suppliers can offer you hundred kinds of pressure tanks.

    When speed of application is paramount, pro painters go for an airless paint sprayer. These sprayers work by pumping coatings through a tiny opening in the gun’s tip. The pressures are so high—up to 3,000 psi—that the paint explodes from the tip into a fine mist. Such pressures also allow these sprayers to work with coatings of any type, from thin stains to pudding-thick latexes, without any need to adjust their consistency. And because the droplets they generate are so tiny, Airless Sprayers are also able to lay down a flawless finish on broad surfaces like cabinets and doors. By contrast, the high-volume, low-pressure (HVLP) sprayers often marketed to DIYers atomize paint using low-pressure air streams. The bigger, slower-moving droplets they create are less likely to drift off as overspray—a plus for small jobs and detail work—but these sprayers’ lower output makes them impractical for covering large expanses.

    Pneumatic Tools, powered by compressed air, can be a useful and portable addition to electrical tools on construction sites, in industrial workshops, and at any work site where power tools are used. The air compressors that power pneumatic tools must be used correctly to ensure the safety of all workers on the job site.

    Common pneumatic tools used on the job include nail guns, staple guns, drills, riveting guns, paint sprayer, sanders, grinders, wrenches, buffers, and jackhammers, but the list of available air-powered hand tools is endless.

Quilting with machine embroidery is an easy way to finish off the top of a quilt or be creative with quilt blocks. With the popularity of personal embroidery machines increasing, many quilters find it cost-effective to quilt their own projects instead of sending them to a professional. Also, for those who quilt by hand, this process can get the job done in a fraction of the time.

Quilting With Machine Embroidery Basics
While quilting with machine embroidery may sound cumbersome, it doesn't have to be if you follow the instructions and have the correct embroidery supplies. This style of machine quilting falls into two categories:

Machine guided: This technique, which uses your machine's feed dogs, is for straight and slightly curved lines. It is used with a walking foot and sews about 12 stitches per inch.
Free motion: This type of quilting, where the feed dogs are dropped or covered up, normally doesn't follow straight lines. You can use different feet with it, but a darning foot works well. This foot jumps up and down with the needle, allowing you to easily move the fabric.

Supplies and Accessories
Quilting and embroidery supplies and accessories vary depending on your machine and the type of quilt you want to design. Some of the basic tools needed are:

Sewing or embroidery machine
Embroidery patterns
Needles
Thread
Bobbins
Gloves or grippers
Embroidery hoops (if they don't come with your machine)
Spray adhesive
Darning foot and other embroidery machine feet
Quilting stencils
Designs Available Online
There are many helpful Web sites where you can buy or download for free many different printed quilting and embroidery designs. For example:

Embroidery Online offers a wide choice of delicate and beautiful quilting designs for purchase.
Erica's Embroidery Designs has both simple and complex designs.
Splinters and Threads has some basic patterns for sports, feathers, and other miscellaneous designs.
Golden Threads motto is, "Designs that make every embroidery quilt a work of art," and the ones listed on the Web site show just that. Everything from complete quilting packages to miniature designs is offered.
Advantages and Disadvantages
Some will find quilting with machine embroidery a breeze, while others won't like it all.

Pros
There are many advantages to embroidering a quilt in this fashion:

It cuts back on time it would take to hand-embroider the item.
It can be cost-effective because doing the microfiber printed quilting at home is cheaper than having a professional do it.
Learning a new craft may be hard work, but it is fun.
Cons
While every quilting technique has an upside, it also can have a downside:

Quilting with machine embroidery does not work with every style of quilt, like jacquard quilt.
Making a mistake can be costly, especially if the machine snags, rips or puckers the fabric.
If you are a novice quilter, a professional can embroider your quilt quicker and more efficiently.
Tips for Quilting With Machine Embroidery
If you are using a basic sewing machine, the easiest way to get the design onto your quilt is to trace it onto tissue or other lightweight paper. Pin the paper to the quilt and sew on the lines. Tear the paper away when you are done.
Add a folding or cart table next to your sewing table to help support the heavy quilt.
Practice on scraps pieces of fabric before quilting your final product.
If you are a beginner, take a digital printed quilting class from your local craft store or community college.

Michael Miller Fabrics will begin printing the majority of its quilting cottons digitally in 2019. The shift from screen printing to digital printing is one that Michael Steiner, the co-owner and company president, has been contemplating for a while. “We’ve been printing a small percentage of our quilting fabric digitally for three years now,” Steiner said in a phone call from the Michael Miller warehouse earlier this week. “And all of our plush fabric is printed digitally. Digital printing is not the only path forward, but it’s definitely a path that offers more flexibility for us.”

Until now manufacturers of premium quilting cottons, the kind of fabric sold through independent quilt shops which sell patchwork printed quilt, ultrasonic quilt, winter quilt, etc., have been printed with flat-bed screen printers through mills in Korea and Japan. Screens are engraved for each color in the design, then ink is pushed through a frame screen onto the fabric, like a stencil. The quality and colorfastness of the prints are high, but there are limitations. A screen can only hold about two dozen colors and the repeat can only be 24 inches wide, the size of the screen printing bed. The process creates dye and water waste. There’s about an eight-month turnaround time from the time the designs are submitted to the time the fabric is in the warehouse. And the mills require an 800-1,000 yard minimum order for each colorway. There are also no high capacity flatbed screen printers for textiles left in the US.

THE DIGITAL ALTERNATIVE
For at least a decade digital fabric printing has been lurking as a possible alternative. The print-on-demand fabric company, Spoonflower, was founded 2008 giving consumers a taste of digitally printed fabrics. Today, most of the major manufacturers of quilting cotton have done some digitally printing fabric, at least on an experimental basis. But now, several of the major companies are going all in. (Watch the digital printing process in this video from Hoffman California Fabrics.)

Last year Ken Gamache at QT Fabrics decided to shift all of the company’s fabric to a digital printing plant in China. Gamache says the plant he’s found can produce 18 million yards a year and has just invested in a second printer. The trade tariffs on Chinese goods that could be implemented in the coming months will impact QT in a way that they won’t affect other quilting fabric companies, but Gamache feels the decision was likely the right one anyway because it affords him the ability to better control QT’s inventory, plus he loves the quality of the designs digital printing can produce.

CAPACITY AND PRICING
Right now there are digital printing plants in China, Korea, Pakistan, Japan, Italy, and even in the US at Santee. The Korean mills haven’t yet invested in the high-speed digital printers so their cost is still very high. Others can offer fair pricing, but can’t produce the necessary volume, but they’re getting there.

THE CREATIGVE ADVANTAGES OF DIGITAL
Hoffman California Fabrics has embraced digital printing, becoming known for their digitally printed fabric panels. “We can quite literally create anything and turn it into fabric without any limitations on color or problems with overlapping motifs,” says Hailey Hoffman-Chisholm, Marketing and Sales Associate at the company. “We can capture thousands of colors and achieve photorealistic designs on cotton.” Still, there are some color limitations. According to Steiner, digital printers can’t print metallics or pigment white.

Hoffman has gotten creative with product development, using limitless size for repeats to their advantage. They’ve designed large panels and now bolts that are two-yard panels with eight different fat quarter-sized prints. For Hoffman, the cleaner printing process is also a priority. “Textile manufacturing is not good for our planet, and the digital printing process is by far the most eco-friendly form of textile printing that has come about,” Chisholm says. “We believe it is the right way to print and where textile manufacturing will go as a whole.”

LESS RISK FOR REPRINTS
Digital printing allows fabric companies to be more nimble when it comes to reprints. The large minimums screen printing requires can make companies hesitant to reprint a design or collection, even if sales look promising. The four times a year release cycle that has become industry standard means companies can easily become saddled with excess inventory that ends up being sold at a loss in closeout sales.

Digital printing, on the other hand, offers lower minimums. “Technically the minimum is 5 or 10 yards,” Steiner at Michael Miller says, “But really we would produce 500 yards of each design.” That level of investment is easier to make. Fabric that sells well and gets reprinted benefits designers, too, because they continue to earn royalties on the designs that have proved to be most successful.

Steiner explains, “There’s no benefit in producing something that’s not going to sell. If we print 2,000 yards and sell 800, then closeout the rest, that doesn’t benefit the designer.” Digitally printed fabric continues to cost somewhat more to produce, at least for now, which leads to a higher wholesale price. This means designers will also see slightly more money per yard sold.

WHERE WE’RE HEADED
In the years to come the quilting industry will likely see more companies follow in QT and Michael Miller’s footsteps, shifting the majority of their operations to digital. “I think it’s good for the whole industry,” says Steiner. “Less glut in the market, less excess fabric floating around clogging things up and inhibiting new product development.”

Dog beds can be simple or fancy, expensive or homemade, and everything in between.

How do you pick the right dog bed for your pup when there are so many on the market? Does your pooch even need a dog bed? Should you spend a lot of money when your dog is just as happy lying with you in your human bed or on the couch?

These are all questions you should consider before you buy a dog bed, and this dog bed guide is here to help you make a decision.

Does Your Dog Need A Dog Bed?
Even if your dog is allowed to sleep with you in your human bed, every dog should have a bed of their own — or two or three or four, actually.

There are plenty of benefits to having dog beds. They can be used for napping during the day and sleeping in at night.

Unlike the floor, a bed will keep your dog warm, support arthritic joints, and prevent calluses. And unlike a couch or human bed, dog beds, or pet bed, are spaces that pups can have all to themselves.

And if you’re allergic to your dogs, then it’s best if they sleep somewhere besides your bed.

Dog beds can also be taken with you when you travel so that your dog feels comfortable and is able to sleep somewhere familiar. They’ll rest easier and feel less anxiety.

Dog beds are also usually easy to wash, which makes life easier if your dog has accidents, gets infested with fleas or mites, or just rolls in something stinky.

A dog bed shouldn’t be used as a place for punishment or confinement. It’s a place of security that belongs only to that one dog, and they should always feel safe in it.

A bed makes a crate more comfortable, but that doesn’t mean a dog can spend twelve hours a day in a crate just because it has a bed. It’s a place dogs should be able to go and relax without feeling trapped or anxious.

All dogs could benefit from having a place where they can feel calm and de-stress during the day or night.

What Kinds Of Dog Beds Are There?
Dog beds can be as simple as your old pillow or as fancy as a wrought-iron frame with a lace canopy. Your selection depends on your taste, budget, and décor, but you may find that your dog expresses a preference by taking over another dog’s bed.

Keep an eye on where your dog feels most comfortable, as this can help you decide which bed will be best.

Basic Styles Of Dog Beds
Flat pads or mats are inexpensive and fit in crates.
Nesting/snuggle beds are similar to beanbag chairs and often preferred by smaller dogs who love to curl up.
Cuddler/nest beds come in the “traditional” oval bowl shape.
Bolsters have one long side with a built-in pillow and are often preferred by large dogs.
Donut-shaped beds are circular bolsters with a removable center pillow.
Waterproof beds are good for outdoor use or incontinent pets.
Homemade beds can be inexpensive and easy to customize. There are plenty of tutorials on how to make your own dog bed with blanket that you can find on YouTube or by searching online. Just make sure you’re using safe materials and that it will hold up, especially if your dog likes to chew.
Special Dog Beds For Seniors Or Dogs With Medical Needs
Orthopedic beds support old joints or very large dogs; they usually have medical-grade foam and/or box-spring construction.
Heated beds maintain body warmth. This can be beneficial for dogs who get cold easily or for dogs with arthritis that is worsened by the cold.
Travel beds are portable, so your dog can have the security of the same bed every night while on the road. For dogs who suffer from anxiety in new places, this can help them relax and get some sleep.
Cot-style beds keep your dog off the ground and comfortably support joints by distributing the dog’s weight evenly. They are also usually fairly easy to transport.

What Is The Best Dog Bed For Your Dog?
There are so many dog beds on the market. How do you pick the best one? There are many factors to take into consideration, including size, cost, comfort, your dog’s medical needs, convenience, and so much more.

You should do your research and consult your veterinarian about your pup’s needs before you make a decision. Here are several factors to consider when choosing the best dog bed:

A good fit. Beyond finding something within your budget, make sure your dog fits on the bed; heads and limbs shouldn’t have to be hanging off the edge.
Easy washability. Dogs eat treats, vomit, pass gas, scratch fleas, and wipe ointment-filled eyes and ears on their beds. Some dogs urinate on them — so the ability to throw the bed into the washing machine is a big help, if not downright critical. Dogs with allergies will also benefit from having their bed washed frequently.
Safety. Place the bed away from high-traffic areas so no one trips on it or on the dog. If the dog chews it, then get rid of it — swallowing stuffing can lead to emergency surgery (and you thought the bed itself was expensive). Remove any buttons or ribbons the dog could chew, or look for “chew-proof” beds now available.
Stuffing that works for you and your dog. Young, warm, healthy dogs can usually get by with inexpensive foam filling, but your older or arthritic dog will probably prefer more comfort and support. Some orthopedic beds use foam because it’s thicker and of higher quality, so it doesn’t squash flat. Thick, flexible gel has recently become more common as a bed filling; it’s more comfortable than foam and distributes weight more evenly, making it excellent for geriatric dogs — but expensive. And some beds contain cedar chips to ward off pests and keep the bed smelling fresher than your dog.
The environment. Some of us are concerned about using materials that won’t harm the earth when we decide to replace, get rid of, or recycle a dog bed, or a car tree. You can check out eco-friendly dog beds if that’s something that factors into your decision.
Absorbent pads for dogs who wet the bed. Sick, incontinent, or geriatric dogs can benefit from washable or disposable absorbent pads (technically, you’re the one benefiting because you won’t have to wash the bed). Note: These flat pads won’t fit well in a nesting bed.

The right recovery straps and how to use them can make the difference if you can pull your vehicle out safely or if you have to wait on a tow truck. A high-quality strap without hooks attached to it is the strap you want to use for getting a vehicle unstuck.

The above is called a “tow” strap. The main reason not to use this for recovery is simple. If the recovery strap or your recovery hardware breaks, it’s not safe to have a metal hook flying off at speeds in excess of 100 mph.

Many people have been killed and seriously injured by using these straps incorrectly. These straps will not stretch because they are made for towing, not recovery.

How a Recovery Strap Works
The strap works like this. Say for example you are pulling out your friend, so you attach your recovery ropes to the back of your vehicle and then to the front of his. As you drive away from him the recovery strap stretches just like a rubber band. The strap wants to go back to its normal size, so it has no other choice than to transfer the energy to the stuck vehicle, pulling it out.

Recovery straps are flat with sewn loops and no hooks. They are nylon, not polypropylene or Dacron or chain. Because the straps are made of Nylon, they stretch. They are safer than chains, easier to use, and not nearly as heavy.

Specifications
I’ve seen recovery straps come in lengths of 20 to 40 feet and widths from 2 to 6 inches. A general rule of thumb, each inch of width will allow you to pull out about 10,000 lbs. So if I have a 3 inch wide strap, it would be rated to tug up to 30,000 lbs. Many will then ask, why not go all the way up to a 6″ wide recovery strap? The problem is that the strap becomes less elastic the wider it gets, which means it will not work properly. Typically a 2″ or 3″ wide recovery strap will suit all of your needs.

Tips for Recovery Strap Use
Before ever using the strap, make sure it is in good condition ( no cuts, frays, or broken stitching.)
Make sure the hardware being used is free of defects and rust. This includes your tow hooks or front hitch and the hardware on the other vehicle. If possible, the recovering vehicle should place the recovery kit strap to its rear end, which would be the safest place if the strap happens to break.
You may be able to wrap the strap around a hitch, but I would not put it IN the hitch. I have seen a few people who have bent the pin, which then had to be cut out. Getting a tow hook or D-Ring adaptor to go into the hitch is a better idea. Here is an example of a D-Ring adaptor and how a recovery gear strap should be hooked up to one:

Some older cars actually have tow hooks, but if not you must use your own judgment. Never attach a recovery strap to a vehicles bumpers, axles, suspension, steering rods, or a trailer hitch ball. The attach points must be to a secure place on the vehicles frame. Do not place the recovery strap on another vehicle in a way that it may be cut.

Never, ever, attach a recovery strap to another vehicle with a knot. You should pass one end of the strap through the loop at the other end of the strap to secure it on.

Incase the strap may break, lay a tarp or some jackets on top of the recovery strap. When the strap breaks (lets hope for the best, but prepare for the worst), the jackets or tarp will slow the recovery strap down before it hits someone.

To help protect the strap from tears, make sure all logs and large rocks are removed from the recovery path. Everyone should stand clear of the recovery strap when it is in use.

When pulling the vehicle out, drive very slowly. Sudden tugs may lead to damage to either of the vehicles or the strap accessories.

Once the vehicle is safely removed, inspect your recovery kits strap and hardware and hit the road!
In addition to these recommendations, read the instructions your recovery essentials strap comes with. To protect your strap, store it out of sunlight and away from heat and keep it clean. Dirt, mud, and debris embedded in a tow strap actually damages the fibers over time and can decrease its strength. After a muddy day of wheeling and recovery, always clean your straps by hosing them off and spray horizontally across the strap as not to push the debris into the strap fibers. Happy Recovering!

What are the benefits of seaweed?

    Seaweed grows in or near salty waters. There are several types, and they generally contain many healthful minerals that are easy for the body to break down. Adding seaweed to the diet may help with thyroid function, digestive health, and weight loss.

    Types of seaweed include:

    1. nori

    2. kelp

    3. wakame

    4. komb

    5. dulse

    6. blue-green algae, such as spirulina and chlorella

    This variety can make it easy to incorporate seaweed into different recipes. It is possible to eat too much seaweed, however, and some people should avoid it.

    The benefits of seaweed

    The following are the best health benefits of seaweed:

    1. It is highly nutritious

    Each type of seaweed may contain slightly different nutrients and minerals.

    In general, however, eating this marine algae is a simple way to boost a person's intake of vitamins and minerals without adding many calories.

    As a study in Marine DrugsTrusted Source notes, seasoned seaweed is generally a good supply of: protein, carbohydrates, fiber, minerals, polyunsaturated fatty acids.

    A study in the Journal of Applied PhycologyTrusted Source points out that the various types of shredded seaweed contain helpful nutrients, including: vitamin C, vitamin B, vitamin A, vitamin E, iron, iodine.

    Seaweed also contains antioxidants, which may protect the body from oxidative stress and reduce inflammation at the cellular level.

    2. It may help with thyroid function

    The thyroid gland controls and releases hormones for energy production, growth, and cellular repair.

    The thyroid needs iodine to function correctly, but the amount that a person requires depends on the state of the thyroid.

    Iodine deficiency is one cause of hypothyroidism (underactive thyroid). It may result in the development of a goiter, a visible enlargement of the thyroid gland.

    People may be able to prevent or improve hypothyroidism by ensuring that their diet contains sufficient iodine.

    Hyperthyroidism occurs when the thyroid gland is overactive and produces excessive amounts of hormones. An excessive iodine intake may worsen symptoms of hyperthyroidism.

    Seaweed is very rich in iodine. According to a study in the Journal of Food and Drug Analysis, kombu is the richest source of iodine, followed by wakame and nori. Kelp powder is also a significant source.

    The type of seaweed and location in which it was grown can alter the iodine contents.

    3. It may help with diabetes

    Fiber-rich foods may help with diabetes. This is because high amounts of fiber help regulateTrusted Source blood glucose levels and insulin levels. Adding fired seaweed to the diet may help increase a person’s fiber intake without a large increase in calories.

    A 2018 studyTrusted Source in rats found that compounds in one type of roasted seaweed may directly reduce markers of type 2 diabetes, such as high blood sugar.

    Compounds in seaweed may also reduce diabetes risk factors, such as inflammation, high fat levels, and insulin sensitivity. Further research in humans may help provide stronger evidence for the use of these compounds.

    4. It may support gut health

    Bacteria in the intestines play an important role in breaking down food and supporting digestion and overall health.

    Algae may be an ideal food for the gut. Authors of a study in the Journal of Applied PhycologyTrusted Source report that algae tend to contain high amounts of fiber, which may make up 23–64 percent of the algae’s dry weight.

    This fiber can help feed the gut’s bacteria. Intestinal bacteria break fiber into compounds that improve gut health and the health of the immune system.

    Adding algae to the diet may be a simple way to provide the body with plenty of gut-healthy prebiotic fiber, which in turn can help with issues such as constipation or diarrhea.

    5. It may help with weight loss

    The fiber in original seaweed may benefit people who are trying to lose weight.

    Fiber helps a person feel full, but it contains very few or no calories itself.

    According to the study in Marine DrugsTrusted Source, a high amount of dietary fiber delays stomach emptying. As a result, the stomach may not send signals of hunger to the brain for a longer time, which may help prevent overeating.

    6. May protect the heart

    As the same study notes, high-fiber foods such as algae may also reduce levels of cholesterol in the blood. These soluble fibers bind to bile acids or salts in the body.

    The body then uses cholesterol to replace these elements, which may result in a decrease of total cholesterol by up to 18 percentTrusted Source.

    Many types of algae also have high levels of antioxidants, which may also support heart health over time.